ROVER TEN SPECIAL COUPE
Technische Daten

4 Zylinder Reihenmotor
Bohrung:  63mm
Hub:          95mm
Hubraum: 1185 ccm

Leistung: 18 kw (25 PS)

Höchstgeschwindigkeit: 88 km/h

Beschleunigung 0-80 km/h: 45 s

Ventile obenliegend mit Stoßstangen

Ventilspiel 0,10mm bei warmen Motor

Zündfolge 1-2-4-3

Schwungradmarkierung: T.D.C =  O.T 1.Zyl. / F.A. = Zündpunkt 1.Zyl. /  E.P. = 1.Zyl. Auslassventil voll geöffnet

Schmierung: Zahnradpumpe

Batteriezündung: 12V (- an Masse !) Hand und Automatic Betrieb

Tankinhalt: 30 l hinten eingebaut

Kupplung: Einscheiben Trockenkupplung

Getriebe: 4 Vorwärts-, 1 Rückwärtsgang, als Einheit mit dem Motorblock

Achsantrieb: Ölfüllung ca. 1,8 liter (bei Überfüllung kann Öl zu den Bremsen gelangen!)

Freilauf (bei Fahrzeugen mit der Bezeichnung "Special"):  zuschaltbar, im Getriebe integriert, wirkt in allen Gängen

Bremsen: hydraulische Trommelbremsen von Lockheed an allen 4 Rädern, Handbremse wirkt unabhängig auf die Hinterräder

Dämpfung: hydraulische Stoßdämpfer an allen 4 Rädern

Radgröße: 4.50 x 18

Maße:
N/S = nearside = links
O/S = offside = rechts
Radstand: 8 ft. 8 ins (2630 mm)
Spurbreite: 4 ft. 3 ins. (1300 mm)
Bodenfreiheit: 7 3/4 ins. (190 mm)
Gesamtlänge: 12 ft. 11 ins.  (3920 mm) ohne Stoßstangen
Gesamtbreite: 5 ft. 1 in (1560 mm)
Elektrik: Lucas Scheinwerfer, schaltbar an der Lenksäule
Zündkerzen: Kontaktabstand ca. 0,4mm
Starten: Lucas "Startix" wahlweise (der Motor startet automatisch neu, wenn er im Freilaufbetrieb ausgehen sollte)

 

 

 

 Rover 10 Special Coupè - TH2962

 

Operating notes by Tony Rowland

 

 

These notes have been compiled following 20 years of ownership
as a series of useful hints.

 

  1. Engine Bay
     

    1.1 Oil pressure
    This can be adjusted using the square-headed stud by the dipstick. It is set about right i.e.according to the manual. Too high an oil pressure can lead to leakage past bearings, gaskets etc.

    1.2 Oil pipe
    There is a copper pipe running underneath the engine from front N/S to rear O/S. This carries oil at full pressure and is obviously vulnerable to fouling by anything of sufficient height on the ground. (Speed Bumps are ok)

    1.3 Fan
    Take care when bonnet is up and engine running!

    1.4 Distributor drive
    At rear of dynamo there is a small plate allowing access to grease the worm and helical gear (new 2006) that drives the distributor shaft. It´s not a normal grease nippel and is easily overlooked. Pack with grease once a year.

    1.5 Spark plags
    There is a special socket for KI7 plugs in the toolbox on the bulkhead. (Knurled fittings HT leads to spark plugs are best tightened / loosened by small MOLE Wiench)

    1.6 Steering box
    Best way to fill it is with a pressure oil can (SAE140 straight gear oil – not EP)
     

  2. Electrical (car is positive earth)
    2.1 Headlamps
    The car retains the old dipping system whereby both lights are on for main beam, but o/s goes off an N/S moves by solenoid for „dipped“. This is legal for pre-1935 cars (not used after dark) if you need to remind your M.O.T. tester!

    2.2 Battery isolator
    The knurled Knob at the battery connection can be removed as a security and / or safety device.

    2.3 Additional ignition interrupt switch
    Before I fitted the battery isolator, I fitted this as a security device. Low tension lead to coil is taken via a slide switch on the dash, previously moved, and returned to the coil. I haven´t used this since battery isolator fitted.

    2.4 Ammeter
    You will notice that when battery is charging, the gauge shows a discharge. This is because the gauge has been incorrectly wired by a previous owner. My policy has been, as long „as you know about it, don´t worry about it!“

    2.5 Flashing indicators
    There is a rough sketch in the 10 Special paperwork showing how these are wired. I´ve put a couple of spare 42 W flasher canisters in the spares box. (No use to me now as both Rover 12´s are still on semaphores!)

    2.6 Brake light
    A single 21 W brake light is legal for classic cars. (Think about Standard 8/10 in 1950´s).

    2.7 Horn

    Sometimes when ignition is retarded, the horn won´t work, but it always works when ignition is advanced (which is the norm when driving). It must be something in the steering wheel boss, but my policy has been to leave well alone!

    2.8 Startix system
    Don´t go there! It is only brought into action by turning ignition switch clockwise, very unreliable, even when new, apparently.
     

  3. Lubrication

    3.1 Greasing
    Normally only necessary once a year. Use 10/25 chart as a help but there are differences between 10/25 and 10 Special. All greasing points are of the hexagonal type, including the U/T´s, except for the fan shaft bearing which is normal (modern) type. Thankfully, the awkward clutch greasing point was replaced by a „lubricated for life“ fitting when the engine/clutch was rebuilt.

    3.2 Oils
    Engine SAE30 (SG), gearbox and differential SAE90 (SG) and steering box SAE140 (SG). All straight gear oils (Morris oils) Gearbox has a dipstick, and the best way of checking the diff. oil is to unscrew the filler hex-nut/washer, then dip your finger in the filler pipe. Level should be to top of filler pipe.
     

  4. Brakes, etc.

    4.1 Footbrake
    The Lockheed hydraulic braking system is as fitted to contemporary Morris 10 cars. The master and slave cylinders are cast iron but the pistons are aluminium. This can cause problems of partial seizing if the car is laid up for any length of time. It´s worth doing a full check of all brakes at least once a year.

    4.2 Handbrake
    All rods and cranks. For adjustment, there is a butterfly nut on the end of each rod to the rear wheel backing plates.

    4.3 Tacking
    There is a bottle jack with lever in the bulkhead toolbox. Best jacking point is centre of each road spring. In garage, a hydraulic lift jack on beam front axle is handy for lifting both front wheels at once. Use axle stands for safety.
     

  5. Starting and driving

    5.1 Starting
    Gearbox is neutral, and clutch pedal depressed to avoid drag of cold gearbox.
    If engine is cold, fully retard ignition, full strangler (choke) wind up hard throttle a few turns, turn ignition key anti-clockwise, and press starter button. As soon as the engine fires, move advance/retard lever to advance, return strangler to half position until engine is warm (say 1 minute), then push in strangler fully. Then, as soon as possible, return hand throttle to normal.
    If engine is hot, use same procedure except that no strangler is needed. I have found best running is achieved with advance / retard lever fully advanced, but then moved just a tad towards retard.

    5.2 Gears
    There is no synchromesh on 1    st and 2nd gear, so double de-clutch is necessary. I tend to double de-clutch on all gear changes.

    5.3 Freewheel
    Freewheel cable inoperative

    5.4 Keys
    „Spade“ type ignition key provided (with spare)
    „Normal“ key provided for driver´s door (with spare)
    Passenger door is lever locked
    Carriage key used for boot lid (in dash)